Several Updates

Hi all :)

Several updates made to my website, and I have also added some video clips on YouTube (click here), as well as a picture gallery of Luna and Rockstar's kittens (click here).

Been super busy, hopefully things are settling down soon and I will have more time to post!

Kittens!

Hello All =^..^=


Just a quick note to let you know that Luna and Rockstar's babies arrived safely--mom and babies are all doing well.  They had 4 kittens--2 blue and white (can already see classic tabby racing stripes on the big boy!), and 2 cream and white.  I have posted inital information on my "kittens" page on my website, but they will have their own page soon.

I can already see purrsonalities emerging, tiny kittens tho they may be :)  Everybody purrs, we have a boss already, a worrier, and all are mellow and cuddly.  Markings are super cute--can't wait until they are a little bigger and I can start taking some cute pictures to show them off!


More to come soon--on these kittens as well as the two litters coming soon.  Can't wait!


M.

Vaccinations

Keeping your kitty vaccinated is really important.  Even kitties who don't go outside or have visitors should still be vaccinated to protect them against many diseases.  The problem is, cats have a weird response to shots.  The most worrying is that some cats will develop a fast growing cancer at the shot site.  So it is important to keep kitty up to date on vaccinations, with as few actual injections as possible.

Popular belief up until recently was that you needed to run a series of 3 vaccinations  close together (3-4 weeks apart) for the most common kitty vaccinations starting when the kitten was young, and then boost again at one year, and then every year after.  And for rabies, you needed two shots not too far apart, and yearly boosters.  Research has shown, however, that this practice over does it--that cats retain more immunity than previously thought. 

Early kitten shots need to be evaluated by each situation.  The initial series in kittens is hard because of the immunities they gain from their mother at birth and by nursing, and the timing for those wearing off--it varies and is not entirely predictable.   Until those immunities fade, vaccinations will not be effective.  So often the first shot will be ineffective, because of immunities still preset in the kitten's system.  However, if the kittens wean early, and they will be homeward bound early--that shot can be critical for many. Because of my conditions, environment, and practices I can wait a little longer to give the first kitten shot, and as such, get by fine with only doing two of them.  After that, they need another after one year, and then at 3 year intervals.

Now it is possible to fine tune vaccination schedules even further, by the use of titre testing.  Unfortunately, not all vets offer this testing, and some will charge through the nose for it--although others are very reasonable.  Titre testing uses a sample of your cat's blood to check for antibody levels to the things we vaccinate against.  By regularly checking these levels (most commonly at 3 years) you can know exactly when and what your kitty needs to stay protected, and reduce the number of injections (and the amount of adjuvant, antigen, and preservatives--all foreign bodies you are injecting in to your cat)--thereby reducing the risks of injection site carcinoma greatly.

Some other things to consider--what shots does kitty REALLY need?  FVRCP (3-in-1) shots are the backbone of any cat vaccination program.  This shot provides protection against Feline Panleukopenia, Feline Calcivirus, and Feline Herpesvirus/Rhinotracheitis.  Four-in-1 shots add chladmydia, which is no longer a core vaccine, and should only be administered in certain situations (most commonly feral colonies). Rabies is required in many states, but is also the biggest culprit for producing injection site carcinomas.  Some types of rabies vaccinations may be safer than others--so if you need this vaccination, do some reading about different brands and types.  THEN talk to your vet about your concerns and come up with a plan.  Leukemia vaccinations are commonly suggested at the vet's office, but they are EXTREMELY situational, and come with a lot of risks.  Many breeders' contracts stipulate that if this shot is given, any health guarantees made are voided.  The "FIP shot" (Feline Infectious Peritonitis -- a devastating and fatal disease) is another one to avoid--there is very little support for this vaccination doing anything useful.  Likewise the Ringworm vaccination (which turns kitties who become infected with it in to carriers with no symptoms!!).

Fortunately, vaccinations are recieving a lot of attention by the veterinary and cat fancy communities right now--which is causing practices to evolve, and become much safer.  It also means that protocols are changing, so my advice to you, cat lover, is to do some research on your own before each scheduled vet visit!  Come prepared!  Most vets are in the business because they love animals and want to do right by them.  However, they are busy people--and may not be as up to date on cat protocols as they could be.  So help them (and your kitty!) out =^..^=  Know what YOU need, and make sure you are heard!

Chin Acne

Yuck, right?  

Feline acne is a common concern for cat owners.  It often shows up, just like human teenagers, when kitties are making a fast push to adulthood.  For some kitties, it is very temporary.  For others, it will be an issue on and off for most of their lives.  Fortunately, it is pretty easy to control in most cats, and is not usually serious--although it does require treatment! (Or it can get very serious!)

Chin acne is usually caused by oils in the food and bacteria.  It is not generally serious if you catch it early and treat it.  If it gets bad, it can become very problematic, with infection.  If the kitty eats out of a plastic bowl, try switching to a ceramic, glass, or metal one—and make sure you wash it out every day (put the dry food that is left over in another container while you wash and thoroughly dry it, then put back in bowl).   Plastic, no matter how well you try and take care of it, will always harbor some bacteria.  Also, make sure you are feeding a high quality dry diet (if you feed dry at all)--cheaper foods often exacerbate this problem because of ingredient choices. 

To treat the skin, I usually wash the chin with warm water and a wash cloth, using gentle pressure and a circular motion.  You need to thoroughly clean the area, but try not to irritate it—that will make it worse.  I do that a couple times a day.  If your kitty is particularly good about baths and face washing, I like to dilute a little plain Dawn or Ivory dish soap and then make a little lather on a wash cloth and clean with that.  However, you need to rinse the heck out of that, or it will irritate and make it worse--so I recommend that only with kitties who are comfortable with water around the face.  After the area is clean there are a couple things to try—hydrogen peroxide on a cotton pad—wet the area, also 2-3 times a day.  Try not to get it in the mouth—yuck.  If that doesn’t work after a few days, try Neosporin ointment, just make sure it is the plain kind—NOT the one with the painkiller in it—that is poison to cats!  Or you can get the benzyl peroxide pads in a jar for teen acne, and gently cleanse the area with those.  Again, try and keep it out of the mouth/off the lips/not touching the nose (they burn). Look for the ones with the lowest concentration of ingredient, if they have one for sensitive skin, that usually is better, too, because it shouldn’t be fragranced and have tons of alcohol in it. 

If you see any redness or swelling, take your kitty to the vet.  They will probably give you an antibiotic (oral or stronger topical), which is important, because it can become a real problem if left unchecked.  It just usually doesn’t—I’ve had one kitty that needed antibiotics of the hundreds of kitties I have owned, worked thru rescue, or taken care of in various settings.  Most are fine after a week or two of cleaning, and then maintenance.   Once it clears up, just wash it with a warm wash cloth every couple days.  If your kitty is very prone, you might need to do it every day, but my guess is in a few months it will go away. =^..^= 

Nesting... getting ready for kittens :)

"Nesting" is not uncommon for women who are expecting--an urge to get everything ready for the new baby--cleaning, organizing, and making a nice environment.  I find myself doing this behavior, too... for my kittens coming.  Last year I gutted a bedroom, painted and decorated it.  I chose a soft aqua and cream for the walls, with bright white trim.  Soft lighting. A nice nursery.  This time around I tore all the flooring out of that room, and another, put down new laminate, and in the other room painted a nice sunshiny yellow with white trim.  I am almost finished with my projects, finally--well in time for my litters to come.


Momma cats nest, too, but they do it kind of last minute.  Luna, who has some experience, likes to start inspecting and trying out everything about a week before she's due, and gets very serious about it in the 24 hours before she delivers.  She watches everything I put in and clean for her, and she jumps in and out, up on, checks under... everything.  She tries out places for sleeping, I catch her napping in spots for kittening.  She really likes to go around with me and I chat with her about everything.  When she takes her time, I know I need to keep an eye on her closely, because babies are coming soon.  Kozi, on the other hand, had her first litter last summer--and I had to work on getting her to come around with me and check on things.  She slept in a few spots, but never picked anywhere special.  When the time came for birth, she ended up being upset and concerned about a) what was going on, and b) where she should do it.  Contractions got hard, and she was running between spots.  I finally ended up leaving her with just one box (I made the choice for her!), and that worked out OK.  I wonder if she will be any different this time around...


I find myself daydreaming about the coming kittens a lot.  I have a list of possible names I probably won't use, and I've worked out probabilities for color and sex.  I talk to tummys a lot, and to the mommies--asking them how they are feeling and what they have in store for me.  Sometimes I wonder if what I am going through is anything like what a spouse feels for an upcoming birth... or maybe grandchildren.  


I can't wait :) Of course I have to, unlike Christmas I can't peek at the gifts I know are coming.  But it's hard.  And wonderful at the same time!  =^..^=

Happy ending =^..^=

Happy little story...

I took in two exotics that had been neglected and abandoned.  They were incredibly skinny, incredibly dirty, and incredibly shy.  One had a big open gash on her shoulder/leg--to the degree you could see the muscle underneath.  A real mess--I was worried maybe I wouldn't be able to find them homes, and I couldn't keep them long term--but I couldn't say no, either, because they were going to have to go to animal control if I didn't step in--and given their condition, they would have been put to sleep.  

So I isolated them, which was  not at all convenient for anyone.  I nursed them--first treating wounds, then bathing and grooming--all the while working on social skills and feeding them whatever I could get into them.  Bathing and resocializing don't go together all that well for cats, but I did my best to show them love and compassion, understanding.  The girl came around first.  The boy took stumbling upon his weakness--string--to bring him around.  Ah--the power of string!  After a few weeks the two were feeling better.  I had some hope maybe they would come around.  They were still depressed, but stablizing.  A nice lady emailed me asking about available kittens shortly after I took on the task of rehabbing them.  Things shaped up that her family was interested in my two little urchins over the following few weeks.  I continued to work with them, and it's funny...

About the time she made it clear she was really excited about them to me, they both made HUGE strides in overcoming things.  Baths were much less a struggle, much of the shyness fell by the wayside.  Both started eating better.  There were no other changes, just that their future had appeared on the horizon--and it was bright.  I am sure they knew this, understood.  Two cats who had been neglected and abandoned were now wanted and excitedly anticipated, by a family.

Two weekends ago I met Tiffani and part of her family face to face when we met for her to take them home.  We had talked quite a bit by email, and I felt like I knew she was the right place for them to be.  The two scared kitties I had come to know went quietly and confidently with her.  She tells me they still hide out sometimes, but that they are integrating well, and coming right along.

And now they have names-- Lucy and Ricki -- the Ricardos.  If you had met the girl, you would understand--there is no more perfect name.  It is just another reason I believe this was all meant to be--she "gets" them.  :)

Thank you Tiffani and family, I wish you all the best and many happy years together.

Kitten safety! (For cats, too!)

Bringing your new kitten home is a very exciting time, but it can quickly turn sad if you do not take the proper precautions and ready your surroundings.  I always recommend that kittens be confined to one or two rooms to start, and then have their territory expanded slowly, with supervision.  Even a small apartment is a big place for a little kitten, and it is amazing how many potential dangers lurk around every corner.  To help keep your kitten safe, and to help minimize your stress, I have written this guide for bringing home kitty!

Start thinking of things as you would if you were bringing home a baby.  You ARE bringing home a baby, one that is actually more akin to a human toddler in mobility and curiosity.  Just like a human baby/toddler, your kitten will want to experience everything in its surroundings, often with its mouth.  Every nook and cranny is a good hiding spot or place to explore.

Every room holds hidden dangers. Many of these we can work around and prepare against, and the others we must just be aware of, and monitor.  This list is by no means all inclusive--get down on the floor and look around, analyze.  This list is just reflects things that we hear about a lot, and is meant to open your eyes and get you thinking!

Bathrooms—one of the best choices to start your kitten in.  They are usually compact, have relatively few places to hide, have less clutter for accidents, and are easy to clean if you have one.

• Ideally, get some child-proof locks for the cabinet doors.  Cats have no problem opening cabinets, and they are very amusing for them.  Unfortunately, they are almost always full of danger—cleaning chemicals, razors, beauty products, medicinal items—all of which are potentially lethal for your kitten/cat.  Some child locks are VERY easy to install and use—one finger operation.  If you are worried about the hassle, use one cabinet for all hazardous items and only put locks on that.  Other items may be a nuisance if your kitty enjoys playing with them (toilet paper, bandaids, and tampons come to mind)—but they pose little danger.

• Look around and make sure all cleaners, toilet brushes, razors, pills, etc are put away in a safe cabinet or removed from the room.

• Get down on the floor and look under the edges of the cabinets.  Often times where cabinets are set together, or in corners, or next to walls you will find gaps that are covered for aesthetics with a false front—kick board on base cabinets, cover boards between cabinets or near walls.  So while it looks solid from most angles, if you get on the floor and look up a bit (as your kitty will do) you can see the gaps and spaces.  Keep in mind your kitten is very flexible and can squish in to very small spaces.  Any gaps you find, stuff them with cardboard or foam—to the point they and hard to get in to at all

• Think about putting an old towel down behind your toilet.  Most cats like to hide in unfamiliar surroundings, and behind the toilet is not a bad choice.  It is also cool—even long time friends may venture back here when it gets hot.

• Make sure the garbage gets emptied regularly, and make sure everyone knows not to throw away dangerous items in the waste basket here.

• Make sure everyone puts the lid down on the toilet.  Toilet water is not safe to drink—chemicals to clean, germs to flush.  It is also a drowning risk—especially for young kittens.  Any cat may jump in thinking it is solid, hit the water, panic, and pull the lid on themselves scrambling to get out.

• If you have a shower curtain, take the end and put it up over the bar—it is a fun place for kittens to climb, and can be a hard habit to break later.

• Make sure towels don’t hang where they can be swiped if you like them :)  It’s fun to pull them down and sleep or play on them, and they will get snagged.

• If you have shelving in your bathroom, or ledges/windowsills, etc. make sure to clear them of all breakables until kitty has run of the house and you know where they tend to hang out.

• Avoid using rubber backed mats, especially the first few weeks.  The smell smells like a good place to relieve oneself to cats.

• Don’t leave clothes and towels on the floor—your kitten or cat may become confused and use them to defecate. It is harder to stop something that's started than to prevent it in the first place!

Some common things that are very dangerous for your cat in the bathroom: cleaners, medications, tubes of ointments (feel great on teething kitty gums), dental floss, hair ties, rubber bands, toothpaste, toothbrushes, razors and bar soap. 

Your Kitchen:

Sooo many interesting places and smells!

First--plug up all holes and tight spaces, such as:

• Under the dishwasher. 

• Under and around the refrigerator, and behind it—especially if you have a water hook up!  You will need to move the fridge to see what is behind.  Many fridges have lost their cover panel that goes over the back—so there may be open areas to access the fan motor and other parts.  This is very dangerous!  You can get some screen material or hardware cloth from the home improvement store and duct tape it over the back to keep kitty out—cheap and easy!

• Under and behind the stove—especially if you have gas hookups. Again, please take a minute and move the appliance and look to see what is back there.  Just like the fridge, there may be holes in the wall or the appliance itself that are dangerous hiding places.  Even if the gap between the appliance and the wall/cabinet is small, check.  A scared or adventurous kitten (or cat!) can get in to places that look impossible.

• Under the sink -- often there is a big hole thru the cabinet for plumbing—which kittens can squeeze in to, potentially getting in to the walls, under your cabinet, and below the floor—all of which is very, VERY hard to access.  Please consider getting some child proof door latches to secure this area, and then utilize it for cleaning chemicals and other dangerous items you need in the kitchen.

• Get down on the floor and look under the edges of the cabinets.  Often times where cabinets are set together, or in corners, or next to walls you will find gaps that are covered for aesthetics with a false front—kick board on base cabinets, cover boards between cabinets or near walls.  So while it looks solid from most angles, if you get on the floor and look up a bit (as your kitty will do) you can see the gaps and spaces.  Keep in mind your kitten is very flexible and can squish in to very small spaces.  Any gaps you find, stuff them with cardboard or foam—to the point they and hard to get in to at all.

Other things to consider 

• Cats will get on counters.  Your kitten has been started on training not to do this.  Some people encourage the behavior to make feeding easier or other for reasons.  Many people do not want their cats on the counters.  Regardless, until your cat is trained otherwise (and even then occasionally when they think no one will notice!), try to keep your counters clear of dangerous things, tasty things, and breakable things—all which will attract your cat.  Cleaners and cleaning pads, knives, glassware, toothpicks, twisty ties, dishes waiting to be washed…

• Kitchens are often full of dangling cords, which look like toys to cats.  They are appealing to attack, chew on, and try to climb.  They are usually attached to heavy objects that can fall and smash kitties, not heavy objects that will fall and break, and electricity which will electrocute and could cause fires with chewed covering or plugs half pulled out.

• Be careful with your kitchen waste. It is possible for your cat to become very sick as a result of eating scavenged food.

Bedrooms:

• Most box springs have weak, weak fabric over the bottom, and kittens love to get thru it and in to the springs.  Many kittens die from getting smashed or mutilated in there.  Look under your bed and see what’s there.  Fixing this can be as simple as buying an anti-allergen or anti-bedbug zip on cover for a mattress (you are just using it on the boxspring).  If your mattress is supported by slats instead of a box spring, there is nothing to worry about.  Some beds have a wood platform that supports the boxspring, that is safe, too… just look for holes that they can get in to, and cover them with screen or hardware cloth and duct tape.

• Remove all breakable items on the shelves, dresser, windowsills until you know where your kitten likes to hang out.

• Take the cords from blinds and curtains and tuck or tie them out of the way. Clips work well, or just a loose single knot—just make sure you do it up near the top and out of reach.  Kittens can easily strangle on cords—playing and get stuck and panic, or fall with one wrapped around.   

• Keep your closet doors tightly shut.  It is always a good idea to get rid of as many dangers here, too, because kittens have a way of getting in while you are busy dressing.

• Cords—phone lines, charging cables, clock power cords… all of these will appeal to a bored kitten overnight.  Remove what you can, look in to wrapping the rest—you can buy cord wraps at most home improvement stores.  PVC pipe works well, too, if you have several in one spot, just feed them thru down the back of a night stand, the wall, etc.  Use 3M Command sticky strips, Velcro strips, etc to fasten them to walls or furniture, and you can peel away later without wrecking the paint!

Living room:

• Look for holes under the radiator or wood stove, behind the entertainment center, etc.  Also look under the couch and upholstered chairs, and also beneath the cushions—kittens will climb into the springs and get mutilated if they are open or have holes.  Patch over—use screen, duct tape, fabric, etc.

• Pull out sofa beds can also a danger, kittens especially will crawl  in under the sofa cushions and down into the bedsprings.

• Watch reclining furniture, kittens love to hide up under the footstools or get in behind thru the loose fabric.  The mechanisms can crush them.

• Screen off the fireplace. Make sure if you have a fireplace that the flue/vent is closed.  

• Bundle and minimize cords, use a cord keeper or piece of pvc pipe to cover and bundle.

General, whole house concerns:

• Secure screens on all windows to help prevent falls, and keep your kitten off balconies, upper porches and high decks.

• Securely store cleaning supplies, laundry detergent, bleach, paint and paint thinner, pesticides, fertilizer, disinfectants, mothballs, poisons for roaches, ants and rats, medications, and antifreeze (which is deadly and very dangerous because kittens and cats are attracted to its sweet taste). Make sure you keep these in tightly closed areas so your kitten cannot gain access. Kittens are clever little creatures and can usually figure out how to open cabinets.

• Remove poisonous house plants, or place them in hanging baskets that you are sure will be completely out of your kitten's reach. Some common indoor and outdoor plants that are poisonous to cats include amaryllis, English Ivy, narcissus, dieffenbachia (dumb cane), mistletoe, poinsettia, holly, philodendron, azalea, rhododendron, daffodil, daphne, foxglove, bleeding heart, potato, iris, ivy, oleander, rubber plant, tobacco, tulip, clematis, morning glory, and weeping fig. Ask your veterinarian for a complete list of dangerous plants.

• Store plastic bags where your kitten can't get inside them and suffocate, or chew or tear them and swallow bits of plastic, which cover the windpipe and are so flexible and light they are very hard to clear. If you let your kitten or cat play with any bag, even a paper grocery bag, be sure to cut the handles. A kitten or cat can get tangled in the handle of a bag and become frightened. In trying to free himself he could be seriously injured.

• Keep exposed electrical cords as short as possible and tack them against a baseboard so your kitten can't play with them or chew on them as easily. Use some tape or adhesive strips.  There are also tubular cord covers available at hardware stores, or good old pvc, which you can paint to blend in behind furniture or along walls/floors.

• Kittens love to explore and sleep in warm, dark places, especially if they are full of soft stufflike dresser drawers, boxes and closets. 

• Always check to see where your kitten is before closing the door of the refrigerator, dishwasher, trash compactor, oven, etc.

• Always know where your kitten is when you are using the washer and clothes dryer. MANYkittens die in the most horrific ways in these two appliances.

• Whenever you leave home, make a habit of doing a check for the kitten.  Know where he is before you leave.  For the first few weeks shutting him in the room with his litter and making sure she has food and water is a very good idea—especially if you have other pets.  Any accidents are easy to find and clean up, you can make that area “extra safe”, and there is no worry about other pets having a bad day and taking it out on the newcomer.  (It happens even with seasoned pets who love other animals.)

• Keep very small items away from kitty’s reach. Sewing supplies like buttons, needles, pins, and thread can hurt your kitten's mouth or internal organs if swallowed. The same goes for nails, staples, screws, beads and aluminum can tabs. Other things are choking hazards.

• BITTER APPLE is a great training product for things your cat will not stop chewing on.  I have had no luck with similar products, but Bitter Apple is very useful!  It is safe, doesn’t stain or ruin what it is applied to. Try the pet store or order online.

• If you have radiators that get hot make sure you have screens for them.

• Supply chasing and safe chew toys, a climbing platform, scratching post and food and water at all times to keep them busy and out of trouble,

• Be sure you have a place for the kitten to hide—even a box with a hole cut in the side will do, but kitty condos are ideal and provide scratching surfaces as well.

• Don’t put a collar on your kitten—they are strangling hazards and can get caught on even household items.  The “safety collars” are better, but still not advisable. 

• If you are using baby gates, be sure the slats or mesh in the gates are not large enough for the kitten to get parts stuck in—head, limbs, etc.

• Never give your kitten any medication without first consulting your veterinarian. If you think there is any chance your kitten ate a pill, get them to the vet immediately--most towns have 24hr emergency services.  Among the drugs dangerous to kittens are aspirin and the aspirin substitute acetaminophen, diet pills, sleeping pills and tranquilizers. Make sure these and any other medications labeled "keep out of reach of children" are kept out of reach of your kitten as well. Even vitamins (pet and human) can be lethal.

• If the doors to outside need to be opened to move people or things for more than a moment, or if you have visitors, consider putting your cats in a safe room.  Cats can startle, or just be curious, and run out a door that is only open for a moment.

• Balls of string or yarn, spools of thread, rubber bands, balls of aluminum foil or cellophane, corks are all things your cat may enjoy playing with, but should only be allowed with supervision. Put them away when you can’t watch—these are all things that have head to many sad vet visits. Be careful to never allow kitty to play with anything small enough to swallow — like buttons, beads or paper clips.  Keep them away from children's toys made of soft rubber, fur, wool, sponge, or polyurethane (Nerf!). If your kitten swallows a small particle of any of these materials, it could cause problems with his digestive system.

• Candles and oil warmers are interesting to kitty, and can easily be knocked over by a kitten--a potential fire hazard. They could severely scald/burn your cat. And your home!  Keep these well out of your kitten's reach, and only use when you can supervise.

• Keep cupboards and drawers closed. Kitty may jump in and become trapped or injured when somebody closes the drawer/door.

• Carefully inspect any toys your cat has access to on a regular basis. These include both cat toys & human toys which may be lying around. Even if they were safe toys—make sure they remain so!  Check for loose parts, strings your cat could chew off & choke on, etc.

Rambling...

Spring is here in the desert--lots of flowers - blooming, lots of bunnies - hopping, lots of hair - shedding :)  The girls are starting to cycle, so soon kittens will be on the way.  I am really looking forward to this spring's litters--I have 3 planned--2 Exotic litters and one pure Persian.  I know I am excited, but apparently others are, too, as I have already taken a few deposits for kittens in the upcoming litters.  It is so rewarding to hear that others love my kitties, too.  For me, I am living a little dream I had--surrounded by soft voices, pitter-pattering paws, purrs, sweet round faces, and big eyes.  Every where I look I see the kitties I was always dreaming of and searching for.  It is completely awesome in some ways, but I am reminded that it has its downsides, too--most notably having to let go of kittens when it is time for them to go to their new families.  I have been very fortunate in that I have had more families wanting kittens than kittens to give, and also that--for whatever reason--really nice people are drawn to my cats!  I will never produce more kittens than I could keep in a pinch; I will never place a kitten in a home I don't trust.  Not every home I choose is "perfect"--but I know my kitties very well, and I try to get to know the families I am working with well, too.  That allows me to make good matches.  In fact, my matches are becoming one of my best selling points--word gets around, I guess :)  Knowing they are going to good homes helps me with the process, but it is still incredibly hard.  These cats are my kids--I know each one inside out and have very strong bonds with each and every one, even the ones I know I will be letting go when their family comes along.  My kitties are awesome because they know, beyond the shadow of a doubt, that they are loved.  It's neat because people can see that--when I go to a show, when we visit the vet, when I have people in--you can see the love and confidence, and people notice it.

Long time, no blog!

Wow, I’ve had a busy few weeks! Holidays were a busy time for me, and then January just shot by in a blur! 


 The kitties have been busy growing like crazy. The two litters this fall have been a lot of fun, and I am having one heckuva time trying to figure out who to let go of! 


 I did let Gus—now Bo—go to a new family, which was hard :) He is a beautiful boy, and I think he had a lot of potential for show and maybe breeding. But sometimes the right people just come along, and—for me—my main concern is happy kitties and happy families. Bo’s people were an absolute perfect fit. Tracey (his new mom) and I had lots of good conversations and I knew they’d make a great home for one of my babies. When she and James came to visit, not knowing who they would take, I showed them all my kittens. They loved my little blue dude, and after much thinking on my part I knew that was the right thing for him and for them. For me? Well… I really liked him for my program, but at the same time knowing he is very happy, content, and getting as much love as he can handle makes me very happy, too. And I am glad to have this new family in my circle of friends :) So yes, good all around! 


 I also placed my funny little “whoopsie” Selkirk Rex girl, Squeek—now Briley. She met a very nice lady at the show in December, and I was very happy when she called me in January! What a great match—just one of those things, I knew it was meant to be. She is now happily spoiled, along with her new sister :) They’ve made friends, and her new mom Susan has been sending me pictures and updates—I am so glad for her. She was a very special kitty—and even though she didn’t belong here, I loved her very much. I feel like she is where she belongs now, and that is such a good feeling. 


 I always worry about my kitties—I think most breeders do. That and letting go of them are the two hardest parts for me with breeding. It is good to have 2 really fantastic placements, homes I don’t have to worry about—and new found friends and kitty family :) 


 I’ve had a lot of interest in my other kitties and upcoming litters lately—and I have gotten some really good vibes from some of these people, too, so hopefully I will have some more good placement stories to share soon. Assuming I can make up my mind on who I can part with! :) These two nice litters have been a sort of mixed blessing, I can’t believe I am complaining about the luck I had with them! But! Rational me knows I can’t keep them all, and that keeping to much of identical breeding is a bad idea—for my cattery. Emotional me is soooo excited to having this many beautiful kitties—I got two litters of the kittens I was always searching for… and it is very hard for me to share! =^..^=